Saturday , 10 October
After that wonderful pizza last night, I read for a while before falling asleep. Once or twice I heard a clap of thunder and more rain. After four I was awakened to drip, drip, drip. More rain. Hmm, that sounded close. Turn on the light. Oh no! The drops were coming from the ceiling onto the bed. First I put a bowl on the bed and took blankets to lie on the couch. I checked the bed and the drops were splashing the bed and I did not want to monitor the bowl all night. So I rearranged the furniture a bit and placed the bowl on the floor. Feeling comfortable with that solution I fell asleep on the couch.
The first thing I did this morning, even before starting coffee, was to check the bowl. Less than a half inch of water. I was happy to see it did not overflow. I started coffee and checked the weather forecast. It looks like more rain today through tomorrow morning. Earlier on the trip I questioned bringing along the small lapbook. It is not big but it is heavy. I could have done updates with my phone. With rainy days, I am glad to have brought the computer. I am able to be somewhat productive, including genealogy, while staying out of the rain.
Ilaria showed up this morning to clean, change linens and check out the leak. She thinks some of the roof tiles must have moved during the storm. Ilaria noticed a gecko on the wall and managed to chase it outside with a broom.
Since I am going stir crazy only going out yesterday for my pizza dinner, I ventured out just after noon to get some food. I picked up a mortadella sandwich and an olive loaf for lunch. I took advantage of the break in the rain and also stopped by the Mother Church for more photos. I believe this building dates from about 1850 but it was built on the site of a previous church.
Chiesa San Donato Vescovo e Martire – Click on the link, A little trick you can try. After opening a photo, click on 🛈, information. On some photos you will see a description in the top right. It is a translation or some other info from Google Lens.
Some of the baptismal records refer to the parish as San Giuliano. I have been using “Search with Google Lens” on many photos to help with translations and photos. I found this information on this religuary in the Mother Church interesting enough to include:
The history and of San Giuliano Martire (Saint Julian the Martyr) in Anzi represents a deep link between Christian devotion, civic identity, and ancestral rituals.
In Christian hagiography, there are several figures named Julian. The patron saint of Anzi is venerated as a young Roman soldier and martyr, as symbolized by the Roman military armor depicted on the bust-reliquary and the spear (lancia) held in his hand. According to historical tradition, he refused to renounce his faith during the Roman persecutions and was put to death. His martyrdom made him a symbol of courage and spiritual strength for the local community.
🌲 The “Maggio” Ritual: Faith and Nature
The most unique aspect of the cult of San Giuliano in Anzi is how his religious feast intertwines with a pagan arboreal tradition known as Il Maggio di San Giuliano (The Maypole of Saint Julian):
- The Marriage of the Trees: During the festivities (traditionally held around Pentecost), two trees—a tall oak trunk representing the “groom” (il Maggio) and a holly top representing the “bride” (la Cima)—are felled in the surrounding forests and brought into the town center.
- The Union and Elevation: The two trees are ritually joined together into one towering monument, hoisted upright by the townsfolk using ropes and sheer physical strength.
- The Blessing: Once the monumental tree is raised, a solemn Holy Mass is held, followed by a procession carrying the statue of San Giuliano through the streets. The saint’s presence serves to bless both the town’s union and the natural elements, hoping for agricultural fertility and protection.
🛡️ Civic Protection and the Reliquary
The bust shown in the image is not just an artistic object; it is an active sacred vessel designed for civic intercession.
- The Reliquary Base: The gilded pedestal beneath the torso features a small glass window (teca). This compartment historically houses a sacred fragment (a bone or relic) belonging to the martyr.
- A Guardian Against Peril: Historically, communities in Basilicata commissioned these striking Neapolitan reliquary busts during times of extreme hardship—such as the devastating plagues, famines, and earthquakes that struck the Kingdom of Naples in the late 17th century. Having an expressive, lifelike face of San Giuliano watching over the church gave the citizens a tangible sense of divine protection and comfort.
After lunch and sitting around reading the news, I saw another break in the rain. I headed to some streets that I had not seen. Some of the doorway keystones have symbols and dates. The earliest I have found is 1799,
I have occasionally smelled smoke from a wood fire while walking around. As I was heading back to avioid the rain, I came across a firewood delivery. Some people must still heat with wood.
I think getting up in the middle of last night has caught up with me. My olive loaf for early dinner means that I will likely be asleep at 9:00 instead of eating a pizza. Lets hope for no rain tonight and nice weather tomorrow.